Our Neighborhood: Marché d'Aligre
Right around the corner from our flat is the Aligre Market, an open air street market that runs for about three city blocks on rue d'Aligre. The market is open every day but Monday. Near as I can tell this is strictly a produce market. Meat, seafood, and poultry stalls can be found in the adjacent covered market, Marché Beauvau. This is where our friend, Claudia, has her stall, Babbaluscio, where she serves up marvelous vegetarian fare. There is also a large flea market on the plaza just to the east of Marché Beauvau.
The covered market, built in 1779, is one of the oldest in Paris and one of the few still in operation. The street market has its roots in the early 20th century when the nearby Gare de Lyon train station opened. I've read that many people from North Africa living in Marseilles took the train up to Paris at that time, getting off at the new Gare de Lyon station and settling in the area. They opened up street food stalls to make a living. The stalls and permits are passed down through the generations, with many of the stalls now owned and operated by third and fourth generations. This explains the sounds of Arabic being spoken throughout the market.
The Aligre Market is a locals market with zero sense of tourism. The produce is incredibly fresh. On my first visit there I picked up a couple melons, a mango, and some strawberries. They were all out of this world! We've been enjoying fresh fruit with every breakfast and lunch, and sometimes with our afternoon wine and cheese. Today we picked up bananas and apples. Payment is in cash at the street market. They weigh things out on a scale, which shows the amount in Euros. Since I can never understand the amount they are quoting me, I've learned to look at the amount on the scale. In Marché Beauvau, the covered market, you can pay with plastic or contactless payment, as we do with our Apple Watches. It's interesting that it seems more places over here accept Apple Pay than in the States, by my observation. But, if you're buying at the Marché d'Aligre, you'd better bring cash money.
Having a market right around the corner is a marvelous thing. There's no need to drive anywhere for your basic needs. When you factor in the Monoprix a few blocks away (think a shrunken Target), everything you need is available within a short walk. Of course, the market is also a street photographer's paradise. I can walk through the market making photographs of things of interest and nobody pays any attention to me.
9/27/2021 08:18:19 am
The market is heavenly.
9/27/2021 09:31:44 am
It is at that. The produce is amazing!
9/27/2021 06:18:36 pm
What a dream of an experience, you two! Your descriptions make me want to pop over and join you! Enjoy every minute! So happy you can do this.
9/28/2021 03:51:00 am
Wonderful photos! The number of masks is impressive. (N.B. Americans...just saying) A « shrunken Target »...I love it! That’s a pretty good description, Tom! I’ll be interested to hear what you think of our market here in Vannes. More variety, I think, with art, clothing, artisanal products, cafes, cheeses, olives, honey, soap, as well as all the fruits and vegetables. All this in the shadow of the ancient ramparts. Love to see people enjoying Paris as I do!
9/28/2021 06:42:16 pm
It is an every day, beautiful, Farmer's Market. I am in the mood for some fruit right now!!! Gorgeous shots!
10/4/2021 07:37:40 pm
fantastic blog and so generous. wonderful way for many of us to 'sort of travel' vicariously .
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